This was served to me in a scruffy Sicilian trattoria close to the Vatican. The owner, cook and waiter was a woman with so vast a bosom that she couldn’t get an apron over it. Instead she used a tablecloth tied above her poitrine. Awesome. She told us exactly what to eat and we ate it.
You will need a baby mouli-legumes to do this dish.
To make the sauce, sauté the onion in
You can also prepare the aubergines at the same time as the tomato sauce. Slice the aubergines 5 mm thick lengthways. Lightly brush with olive oil, and season. Cook in a large frying pan dry for 5 minutes per side. You may need to do this in several batches. Lay out on a lightly oiled baking sheet in a single layer.
Put 5 litres slightly salted water on to boil half an hour before you wish to eat. Heat six soup plates in the oven, and put the aubergines in to heat up 15 minutes before time. Reheat the sauce, but be careful, it will catch and burn. Break the feta up and pack into the baby mouli. Boil the pasta for 8–9 minutes then taste. If done, drain in a colander, reserving a little of the pasta liquid in a jug. Return the pasta to the hot pan and add the hot sauce. Toss thoroughly, then portion out into the warmed soup plates. Put two slices of hot aubergine on top then, working quickly, mouli the cheese over each dish producing little white squiggles which partially melt on to the aubergine and sauce. Serve quickly.
© 1996 Alastair Little. All rights reserved.