When cooking with Odessa Piper at her restaurant, L’Etoile, in Madison, Wisconsin, we talked about Euell Gibbons’ Stalking the Wild Asparagus, and how much it had been an inspiration in the seventies when we started cooking. So in the middle of winter, I stalked her kitchen and came up with some amazing ingredients she had put away to save the flavors of summer for the winter menus. The wild sand plum puree she had frozen was one of the best fruit flavors I had ever
