A few years ago just outside the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo, I discovered tamagoyaki. An omelette made from rolled up layers of sweet egg, it’s a snack, sushi component or part of a bento box. Mesmerised by a street stall with eight pans on the go, I was inspired to try it at home. They served it up with a nostril-flaring hot mustard, but I’ve concocted a more mellow version using a little miso.
Mix the sweet mustard sauce ingredients together in a small bowl and set aside.
In a medium bowl, add all the remaining ingredients, except the oil and chives, together with a pinch of salt. Whisk until smooth. Pour into two small bowls so you can make two pancakes.
Heat a medium frying pan or, even better, a rectangular tamagoyaki frying pan. Brush the oil over the bottom of the pan. Keep the pan over a low–medium heat and pour in a thin layer of the egg mixture from one of the bowls.
Using two spatulas, roll the egg up after 30 seconds while it’s still slightly gooey. Push it to the end of the pan and pour in another thin layer of egg. While it’s still slightly wet, roll up the omelette over the new egg. Repeat the process until you have used up all the egg, then slide onto a plate. Repeat with the second omelette.
Let the omelettes cool for a minute and then cut into 2.5 cm (1 inch) squares. Sprinkle with the chives and serve with the sweet mustard dipping sauce.
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