Spring Rolls

Flavor: Unique — Meal: Almost in Advance, Fried — Meal: One-Dish

What a travesty most American egg rolls are! They have the drab, sour taste of overcooked celery; any other ingredients are anonymous, flavorless, and mushy. Authentic Chinese spring rolls like Mrs. Chiang’s, with their crisp skins and savory filling, seem like a completely different order of food.

Most spring rolls made in America are wrapped in skins made from a relatively heavy egg noodle do