ON THE island of Folegandros, the filling for this cheese pie is flavored with plenty of onions and enclosed in a thick bread crust. The name for the rustic pastry is also a scornful term used on the island to describe a woman with a bad figure. The pie was traditionally made on Saturdays, the day bread was baked, since the crust was made from a piece of the leavened dough, with some olive oil added.
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the oil and rub the ingredients between your hands until the texture is like bread crumbs. Gradually add enough water to make a soft, elastic dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 2 to 3 minutes. Alternatively, you can make the dough in a food processor. Combine the dry ingredients and pulse to mix, then, with the motor running, add the liquids. (Let the dough rest in the food processor for 2 to 3 minutes.)
Place the onions and scallions in a colander and sprinkle generously with salt. Knead with your hands for a few minutes to wilt the onions and scallions, then rinse under very warm running water. Drain well and squeeze with your hands to extract as much liquid as possible.
In a large bowl, combine the onions and scallions, cheese, yogurt, bread crumbs and pepper to taste. Taste and add salt if necessary—feta is usually quite salty. Stir in the eggs.
Divide the dough into 3 pieces. Take 2 of the pieces and cover the other. Briefly knead together the pieces and roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface into a sheet large enough to cover the bottom and sides of the baking dish, with a ½-inch overhang. Fit the dough into the dish and add the filling.
Roll out the remaining piece of dough into a rectangle just a little larger than the dish and place it over the filling.
Fold the overhanging bottom crust inward. Pinch the two edges together, turn them inward and press to seal, making a neat cord around the edge of the pan.
Flatten the cord with the tines of a fork, to prevent it from sticking out, because it will burn during baking.
If you like, with a pastry wheel, score parallel lines on the top of the crust, crossing them to make diamond-shaped patterns on the pie, being careful not to cut through the crust. Brush with the milk and sprinkle with the remaining
© 2000 All rights reserved. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt.