IN THIS flavorful dish, the poultry is simmered with plenty of scallions, some wine and lemon juice and seasoned with dill at the last moment. The sauce is often thickened with egg, but I prefer the lighter version, where the broth is simply thickened by the pureed scallions. Serve it with rice or a small pasta, such as orzo, which will take on a delicious flavor tossed in the lemony sauce.
The dish is adapted from a recipe for lamb that I found in the very interesting old kitchen ledger of the Chian Choremi family, part of the Choremi-Benaki clan, a large wealthy family of cotton merchants and politicians.
In a large, deep skillet with a lid or a Dutch oven, heat the oil and sauté the drumsticks or thighs over medium-high heat, turning often until golden on all sides, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Add the scallions to the skillet and sauté, stirring, until wilted, about 5 minutes.
Arrange the drumsticks or thighs on top of the scallions. Add the wine, stock or water and salt and pepper to taste and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes. Turn the meat over, cover and continue simmering for 20 minutes more (chicken will need less cooking time than turkey). Carefully remove the meat with tongs and set aside on a plate.
Puree the sauce in a blender or food processor and return it to the pan. Add the meat,
If you like, thicken the sauce with egg, making an avgolemono: Add only
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