IN THIS traditional dish, which is made all over the islands, the pasta is cooked like a risotto, stirred in a flavorful tomato sauce with plenty of garlic until it is al dente. Homemade pastas of all kinds and shapes are cooked this way, often in a meat or seafood broth instead of tomato sauce.
In a large skillet, heat the oil and sauté the onions over medium heat until soft, about 4 minutes. Add as much garlic as you like and stir a few times; do not let it color. Add the pepper or pepper flakes and pour in the wine. As it bubbles, add the tomatoes and sugar, if using. Bring to a boil and cook for about 5 minutes, or until the sauce starts to thicken.
Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring the stock to a low simmer. Add salt to taste.
Add the cheese, toss and transfer to a heated bowl. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve immediately, passing more grated cheese in a bowl.
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