Almond and Yogurt Cake with Citrus Syrup

MY GRANDMOTHER, mother and aunt used to make this cake for family feasts, often cutting it into two layers with a piece of string and filling it with sweet cream to turn it into something more elaborate and festive. Its name means “the one with the yogurt.” It is also called yaourtopita on some islands, and there are plenty of variations on the basic formula.

The idea for the crunchy almond-and-sugar topping was given to me by Despina Drakaki, a friend and ex