THE GREEK equivalent of vanilla ice cream, this is uniquely flavored, scented with mastic—the crystallized sap of the wild pistachio shrub (Pistachia lentiscus), which grows only on the southern part of Chios. Exported to the Arab countries and the Middle East, mastic was the ancient chewing gum: hence the verb “masticate.” To this day, it is still chewed to clean and sweeten the breath, while the ground crystals add their elusive licorice-like aroma to many Greek breads and cookies.
The recipe for this ice cream was created by
I still remember the wonderful ice creams we used to make in the summers, when I was a child, using a rented hand-cranked machine, to which we added ice and coarse salt. In those days, the cream was thickened not with eggs but with salep, a starch produced by pounding the dried tuber of a wild orchid. Ice creams thickened with salep form strands as you dip into them. Today, such wonderful eggless ice creams are found only in Turkey.
In a large saucepan, bring the milk, cream and 1¼ cups of the sugar to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Grind the mastic together with the remaining 1 teaspoon sugar in a spice grinder.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the mastic mixture and the egg yolks.
Pass the cream through a fine-mesh sieve and transfer to an ice cream machine. Chill and then freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
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