54 Goose blood soup

Sup krovjanoj iz gusja


  • ½ goose and goose blood
  • 2 onions
  • 5 allspice and 5 black peppercorns
  • 1–2 bay leaves
  • 1 glass grated rye bread
  • 5–10 dried pears, or 5–10 dried or fresh apples, or beet brine

For the forcemeat

  • goose liver
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 spoon goose fat
  • ½ French roll
  • ¼ onion
  • 1–2 black peppercorns
  • salt
  • nutmeg


Prepare soup [bouillon] from goose gizzards. Add 2 onions, 10 black peppercorns, 1–2 bay leaves, and about 2 glasses of beet brine. Cook until the meat is done and strain. Dried pears and dried or fresh apples may be used instead of the brine. In a stoneware bowl mix 1 glass of grated bread with the blood from a whole goose, dilute with the strained bouillon, and rub through a colander. Heat on top of the stove, stirring constantly until very hot, but do not boil.

With the goose soup serve stuffed goose neck,* prepared as follows: remove the bones from the neck, leaving the skin in one piece. Boil the goose liver and mix with 1 spoon raw goose fat, ½ French roll soaked and squeezed out, allspice, and ¼ onion. Chop everything fine and stir in 2 raw eggs, salt, and nutmeg. Stuff the neck, tie the skin at both ends, and place in the boiling strained bouillon. Cook, cool, cut into pieces, and add to the soup tureen.

*Stuffed goose neck is a regional speciality in several parts of Europe, including the foie gras regions of Alsace and Périgord. The skin, of course, serves as a giant sausage casing. East European Jewish cooks make a version called helzel, although they do not make blood soup, which is contrary to the Jewish dietary laws. A twentieth-century Polish-Jewish version of a stuffed goose neck that added ground veal and omitted Molokhovets’ onion appears in The Jews of Poland, originally published in French in 1929. The same recipe appears in modern Polish cookbooks. See de Pomiane, The Jews of Poland, 170–171, and Czerny, Polish Cookbook, 265.