1212 Apple soufflé*

Vozdushnyj pirog iz jablok


Bake 6 medium apples and rub them through a fine sieve. Beat 6–7 egg whites until stiff and fold into the apple purée, sprinkling on, or preferably, sifting on, ½ glass fine sugar. Transfer to a glazed earthenware dish, sprinkle the top with ¼ glass sugar, and bake for 10 minutes while the Main course is being served. Serve as soon as the soufflé rises and browns; otherwise it will fall.

Serve with cream.

*With this recipe, I return to the issue of tangled culinary nomenclature—a separate treatise might well be written on the subject of puddings and soufflés. A soufflé, strictly defined, is a hot mixture of butter, flour, and beaten egg whites served directly from the oven. The name for any particular soufflé comes from the added ingredients, either crushed or puréed, or from a liquid or powdered flavoring. Since none of Molokhovets’ fruit-based “soufflés” were made with a roux-like base, their consistency and texture differed considerably from the classic French preparation. Her hybrid soufflés—what we might call baked whips—are in fact close cousins of the German Aufläufe, which resemble puddings more than soufflés. Aufläufe contain very heavy ingredients and, although raised by whipped egg whites, they are not as light as a real soufflé. (For more on the differences between Aufläufe and soufflés, see Sheraton, The German Cookbook, 353–366.)