This baba is extraordinarily tasty when it succeeds, but it rarely succeeds.*
*This recipe, with its prodigal use of egg yolks (6 glasses = 70 yolks) and its kicker of a last line, is one of the most quoted in the book. For a modern reader, the image of those sixty leftover egg whites is sufficiently daunting; how many cooks would be intrepid enough to risk a second attempt? The outrageous inconsistency between Molokhovet’s kopeck-pinching frugality and her occasional offhand extravagance—of which this recipe is the most notable example—is appealing in its timelessness.
© 1992 All rights reserved. Published by Indiana University Press.