Molded Salmon Salad

One of the big enigmas of modern Southern cookery is why fresh salmon, now so readily available even in supermarkets, has never gained the popularity of flounder, snapper, bass, and catfish in Southern homes or restaurants. Canned salmon, on the other hand, has been a staple of the Southern kitchen as long as I can remember, used from Virginia to Tennessee to Arkansas to make all sorts of dips, spreads, loaves, croquettes, mousses, and, to be sure, exotic molded salads. Is it best to use fr