Pickled Pork

Food snobs say petit salé, but down South the term is “pickled pork,” and nobody is too poor to be a connoisseur of it. The New Orleans taxi driver who told me, “We wuz poor but we ate good,” explained how it was they ate good: “We used to go to the store and say, Lemme see your pickled meat, and only if it wuz nice and lean you’d say, Cut me off a inch piece.” The taxi man had just had a long discussion with his wife about “how come poke chops today don’t taste like my mama’s mama’s