Salmon Gefilte Fish Poached in Fennel-Wine Broth with Ginger-Beet Horseradish

Preparing gefilte fish from scratch no longer seems so daunting, with food processors and the wide availability of a variety of gleaming fresh fish fillets besides the noble triad of carp pike, and whitefish.

Except for the broth. That still requires real commitment.

You’ll need bones, of course, so you will have to befriend a fishmonger who will remember to save the trimmings. If you don’t have a high-tech air filtration system, you can resign yourself to a kitchen (and per