Rigó Jancsi is Hungary’s national chocolate dessert, although Somlói Galuska would probably make a strong showing at the polls. Squares of cocoa mousse sandwiched between chocolate cake are covered with a shiny chocolate glaze. For years, like many other bakers, I used a recipe for mousse that was based on bittersweet chocolate. But when I discussed this dessert with Sandor Kovacs, head pastry chef at Budapest’s Gerbeaud, he said, “Whatever you do, remember that the real Rigó Jancsi always has cocoa, never chocolate.” For a contemporary touch, set off the dark chocolate glaze with a candied violet or rose petal, or even fresh, edible, pesticide-free flowers like Johnny-jump-ups or pansies.
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