Fashion in food is a two-edged sword: to be at the cutting edge can be exhilarating but it is all too easy to contrive for the sake of novelty. Some of the more bizarre combinations favour neither the mixture of produce, nor the palate of the restaurant diner being subjected to innovation for its own sake. This combination of meat and fish sounds odd, but the result is proven and has stood the test of time, though Vitello Tomato has rather gone out of favour. All the more reason for resurrecting it.
Here the veal is roasted rather than poached and the sauce is made as one process rather than a two-stage affair where mayonnaise is made first The roast veal could simply be eaten hot with boiled new potatoes and Salsa Verde, as this is the classic Italian way of roasting veal. I remember a particularly delicious example eaten at the Agip service station on the autostrada just south of Florence: a thick slice of roasted rump served absolutely plain with only a wedge of lemon and the juices which ran out of it Not the sort of thing one finds at service stops on a British motorway.
Many people refuse to eat veal because of the way some of it is raised. For those so concerned, turkey breast joints can be cooked, glazed and served with a tuna sauce in just the same way to make Tacchino Tomato, which is also a much cheaper dish. Using butter instead of olive oil, seal a
Prepare the sauce ingredients: juice the lemon. Peel and finely chop the garlic. Destalk the parsley leaves.
To roast the veal: rub the veal with salt and pepper. Put the casserole over a medium-to-high heat, pour in
Add the white wine and rosemary, and
Remove from the oven and finish over a high heat on the hob, rolling the veal around to gloss the outside with the reduced wine and cooking juices. Leave to cool completely.
Meanwhile, make the one-step tuna sauce: put all the ingredients except the oils into the food processor. Leave the eggs whole - there is no need to exclude the whites. Process for 30 seconds or until you have a smooth paste. Now add the sunflower oil followed by the olive oil a little at a time, processing continuously, until thickened. Taste for seasoning and adjust, adding more lemon juice if you find it is too bland.
Cut the veal into thin slices and arrange, slightly overlapping, to cover a suitably sized serving plate. Spoon over the sauce and arrange the anchovies over the top in a lattice pattern, then dot the capers in the centres of the lattice diamonds.
© 1993 Alastair Little. All rights reserved.