Veal or Pork with Apples and Country Ham

Bill Hughes is the best meat cook I know. His daubes and stews, roasts and steaks are always simply perfect. He especially does right by veal, the favored meat of early Charleston.


  • 13-pound shoulder steak of veal or 1 3-pound pork loin salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste unbleached (all-purpose) flour for dusting
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • ½ cup sliced leek or scallion, white part only
  • 3 tart baking apples such as Jonathan or Winesap, sliced
  • ½ pound country ham, julienned
  • 1 bay leaf
  • ½ cup dry white wine
  • ½ cup cream


Preheat the oven to 375°. Trim steak of fat, season with salt and pepper, and dust with flour. Melt the butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat and brown the steak or loin on both sides. Remove from the heat and add the leeks, apples, and ham. Add the bay leaf, wine, and cream, then cover the pot and place in the oven for 1¼ hours, adding water if needed during the cooking. Serve with twice-cooked potatoes.