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Ask many people if they know or like the flavor of okra, eggplant, or green tomatoes, and they are likely to answer, “I’ll eat them fried.” Southerners are well known for their artful frying. Perfectly fried and drained foods are never greasy.

Slice okra, eggplant (or Guinea squash, as it is called in the Low- country), and green tomatoes and put them into ice water for about 30 minutes before frying. (A splash of lemon juice in the water will prevent the eggplant from discoloring.) Drain the vegetables well, dust them in cornflour seasoned to taste, and fry in deep fat, preferably lard, at 370° until golden, about 3 or 4 minutes. Drain the vegetables on wire racks before serving.