Method

I use two mayonnaise formulas at home. Sarah Rutledge’s version of 1847, “to be eaten with cold meat or fowl,” calls for mustard, a common ingredient in modern recipes; it is otherwise true to the Mediterranean classic. Use the finest, fruitiest extra-virgin olive oil and serve the unctuous sauce on tomato aspic and sandwiches. The second recipe, made with a whole egg in a blender, goes into composed dishes such as pimiento cheese.

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