Andhra Spiced Eggplant

In the Subcontinent, eggplant (known as brinjal in Hindi, begun in Bengali, and bengan in Urdu) is sometimes roasted, then flavored, a technique that perhaps traveled there from Central Asia. The tender mashed flesh has an inviting smoky taste all on its own (even when the eggplant is oven-roasted, not grilled over a fire).

In this condiment from Andhra Pradesh, roasted eggplant is mashed, then briefly stir-fried with soft-cooked onion and spices. At the last mi