Mussel Soup with Cranberry Beans, Celery, and Basil

There is a restaurant in Italy that seems never to have a free table, and it is not in one of the celebrated cities, but in Olbia, a shabby port town in northeastern Sardinia, on the ground floor of a modest hotel. It is Rita D’Enza’s Gallura. How to describe the flavor of Rita’s food? Intense, yet subtle; penetrating, yet gentle; surprising, yet comforting; sprightly, aromatic, surging from deeper sources of savor than anyone else se