Baked Cauliflower Tuscan-Style

As the wife of a man who writes about wine I have come to realize that there is no group of people so hospitable as wine producers. Accompanying Victor on his visits to Italy’s wine districts has earned me a place at a broad variety of regional tables.

At a densely attended bibulous occasion in Montalcino—the southern Tuscan town where one of the world’s most fascinating red wines, Brunello, is produced—a large spread was served buffet-style at midday. A vegetable p