Filling

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 cup finely minced shallots
• 2½ pounds salmon fillets, cut into ¼ pound pieces
• 1 teaspoon freshly-grated nutmeg
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• Spinach Pasta for 6

Sauce

• 3 cups heavy cream
• 3 tablespoons grated lemon zest
• 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives

Prepare the filling: Heat the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until very tender, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, steam the salmon on a rack over simmering water until the fish flakes easily with a fork, about 6 minutes. Let cool slightly, then flake into small pieces. There should be about 4 cups loosely packed.

Place one quarter of the shallots and salmon in a food processor; process with pulses until it holds together. (You should be able to shape it into a ball in your hand.) Remove this batch to a mixing bowl and repeat with the remaining shallots and salmon. Season with nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. (Don’t be surprised if you find the salmon is taking a good deal of salt; it seems to need it.)

Roll, fill, and cut the ravioli as directed on, using about 1½ tablespoons filling for each piece.

Heat a large pot of salted water to boiling. Pour the cream into a large saucepan and heat over medium heat until slightly thickened. Stir in the lemon zest, chives, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer a minute or two and keep warm.

Drop the ravioli into the boiling water and simmer about 5 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon or large skimmer. Shake off the excess water and place on serving plates. Spoon the cream sauce over the ravioli and serve hot. No cheese, please.