Broth with Squid and Vegetables

I first sampled this invigorating soup in Wajima, at the tip of the Noto Peninsula, which juts out into the Sea of Japan. It was part of my morning meal, served in a lovely ceramic pot set upon a portable burner. The woman serving it told me that this broth is reputed to cure hangover as well as restore sapped energy from arduous travels. After a long hot bath in a deep cedar tub and a night of sound sleep on downy futon mattresses, I didn’t really need to be “restored,” but I enjoye