Shrimp Rémoulade with Two Sauces

There are two kinds of rémoulade sauce served around New Orleans, and everybody has a favorite. My preference is the orange-red kind that’s utterly unique to our area. White rémoulade sauce, made with mayonnaise, is actually closer to the classic French recipe. It’s so good that in recent years I’ve taken to making both sauces and letting people take their pick. What the sauces have in common is the main active ingredient: Creole mustard—a rough, brown, country-style mustard mixed with a bi