This is the oyster version of Buffalo chicken wings—a tremendous improvement on the latter. The idea first hatched at Mr. B’s, Ralph and Cindy Brennan’s terrific French Quarter bistro. When Ralph opened the casual Red Fish Grill a block away, he took this with him and turned it into that restaurant’s signature dish.

Use a less-hot hot sauce (in other words, not Tabasco) to make the sauce. When reducing it, m