Now and then I cook grand dinners in the homes of people who have bought my services at charity auctions. I’m never quite sure that what I cook will be worth what the people paid for it, so I get a bit extreme. For years, until beluga caviar became endangered, I would make that magnificent sturgeon roe. But when beluga went away, I shifted to a new product from the Louisiana wetlands. A primitive fish locally called “choupique” was discovered to contain an excellent roe. It is called Cajun