Here’s a rich crabmeat-and-pasta dish that makes a good appetizer or entrée. Resist the temptation to roll these things up so tight that the crabmeat can’t escape; you want to see some of it wandering around on the plate. Do you know how you can tell that this is a New Orleans recipe and not one from Italy? The cheese. Italians would never put this much cheese (if any) in a seafood dish. In New Orleans, not adding the cheese would be unthinkable.