Every food writer of my generation has a Julia Child story. Mine involves this dish. Chef André Poirot at Begue’s at the Royal Sonesta Hotel cooked it for a small dinner party for Julia in the mid-1980s. I sat across the table from her and heard her declare, in her distinctive voice, “Divine! Very creative!” (We were not to hear any more such praise during the remainder of that meal.)

A savory custard holds together the traditional