This was created at Commander’s Palace by Sebastian “Chef Buster” Ambrosia, who might have the best name I’ve ever heard for a chef. For many years, Chef Buster hosted a cooking show on WWL Radio, where I work. He has served oysters Ambrosia in every restaurant he’s headed, and it was always the best dish in that restaurant at the time. It’s as Creole as something can be: seafood with a brown sauce. “It’s good, hearts!” as Chef Buster would