Save this recipe for the day when you find yourself with a surplus of whole fresh fish. If you never have such a day, make crab or shrimp stock instead of the fish stock. The best fish to use, both for the stock and the big pieces that will make their way into the soup, are firm-fleshed white fish, such as redfish, red snapper, drum, grouper, and lemonfish. For something outrageously good, use pompano. For various reasons (texture and color, mostly), I wou