Get two older New Orleans–Italian ladies together, and you’ll have argument about which is the right way to make Milanese, the name for one of the main dishes traditionally served in New Orleans Italian homes on St. Joseph’s Day (March 19). Both ladies will hate this recipe—unless it’s served on a day other than St. Joseph’s and you don’t call it Milanese. Then they’ll love it, and they’ll say it reminds them of Milanese.

The traditional fish used for Milanese is the strongly flavor