“Nuggets of lamb in the style of the House of Gold” was for many years the premier lamb dish at Antoine’s. It was revised in the late 1970s—a good idea, since the sauce was an impossibly old-fashioned concoction riddled with sweetbreads, turkey chunks, and mushrooms. My recipe is really different from Antoine’s dish, but I wanted to keep the name alive because my first golden retriever, Noisette—a wonderful dog—was named after it.