This is not named for the little town down on US 90, but for Paradise, to which the sauce is alleged to raise you. That’s what they told me at Antoine’s, where this was the treatment for squab when I first began dining there in the early 1970s. Squab was out of vogue then, though, and the sauce soon moved to chicken. Now that squab is available and liked by lots of people, it would be nice for the old dish to return.

I like the sauce with almost any bird. I suggest