Almost all french fries in restaurants are terrible, made with frozen potatoes and rarely to order. We put up with that because fries made with fresh potatoes at home are such a pain in the neck to prepare. Our kids love them so much, however, that we’re constantly finding ourselves going through the ordeal—and then enjoying the results very much.

Start with large, starchy potatoes (such as russets). Blanch them briefly in boiling water. Then fry them twice. The second frying is not