Here’s another extinct restaurant dish. It was the favorite side dish at the old Delmonico, before chef Emeril bought and modernized it. Especially right after it comes out of the oven, it’s delicious—even if you don’t like eggplant.

I had this dish for the last time at Delmonico two days before the old regime closed down. It was the night of the Babylon parade, which passed right in front of the restaurant on St. Charles Avenue. We had most of our dinner, went out