Deviled eggs are not thought of as a particularly brilliant appetizer, but I say that’s because most people have never eaten them with New Orleans–style red rémoulade sauce. That combination was a specialty at the historic, lost Creole cafe called Maylie’s. Arnaud’s revived the idea some years ago with its superb rémoulade sauce, and it still holds up. Add some sliced ripe avocado, lettuce, and tomatoes to the plate, and you have a fine little salad. For an