During the thirty years that LeRuth’s restaurant in Gretna was a glowing house of flavor, it served a pair of fruit ices that tasted more like the fruits involved than the fruits themselves. One of those was what Chef Warren LeRuth called mandarin ice. During the satsuma season (early fall), this is best made with those sweet citrus darlings from Plaquemines Parish.

You can make this in a pan, freeze it, and scrape it. Or, if you have an ice-cream maker, you can mak