Roux is a blend of flour and some kind of fat, cooked a little or a lot, used as a base for sauces and soups. It’s a classic French technique, but it’s likely that more roux is used in Creole and Cajun cooking than in all other cuisines combined. Not all Creole and Cajun recipes call for roux, but those that do—notably gumbos—rely heavily on it for their unique flavors.

I deviate from the tradition of my forebears by usually making the roux separately, then adding it to the recipe l