I started making my own barbecue sauce when I volunteered to run a barbecue booth at the festivals at my children’s schools. I used two bits of knowledge gleaned from my barbecue-eating activities. The first came from the late barbecue guy Harold Veazey, who ran the first credible barbecue joint in New Orleans from the 1950s until Katrina killed it. Harold told me that his secret was to “kill it.” That is, you cook the tomatoes so long that they take on an entirely differen