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6 to 8
Easy
9 hr
Published 1992
These small, tender, celadon-hued French beans, the traditional accom-paniment to lamb, are my favorite of all beans. They are not at all pasty and, when properly cooked, have a nice bite. It was a French chef from Limousin who taught me the simple but terrific technique of sautéing the cooked beans in the roasting pan of meat drippings. Michel held some strangely inventive theories about food. Perhaps the funniest of all was his explanation for why there are so many fat chefs: “Because