Potage Billy-By

A regular dish on the menu in my early Soho days. These formative years were spent in thrall to the glories of classical French cooking, in particular that provided by the exalted temples of gastronomy with three Michelin stars. Maxim’s was one of these, possibly the most famous restaurant in the world, but even in the early 1970s, well past its prime. Too broke to even contemplate eating there, I did the next best thing: read about it. The bible was by