Spigola in cartoccio

One of the most important post-war restaurant fashions in Britain started at Mario and Franco’s Trattoria on the corner of Dean Street and Romilly Street in the late 1960s. Up until this point Italian restaurants had generally been rather small, dowdy places, much given to check tablecloths and straw-clad Chianti bottles. Thousands of Italians virtually ran the entire catering establishment all over the country. What they hadn’t brought to any places run by them was any sense of the almost