Truffes de Chèvre en Tapenade

Some foods, olives in particular, taste of the sun; tapenade, the pungent olive pâte made with crushed anchovies and capers, tastes unforgettably of Provence. It can inspire passionate devotion and equally passionate a version. At the restaurant César in Bonnieux, tapenade is turned into another oddly interesting dish: tiny fresh chèvres (goat cheeses), no bigger than 1 ½ in/4 cm in diameter, are rolled in the black olive pâté to give the appearance of whole truffles, then served on a of bi