Sweet and Tangy Cucumber Pickles

This is a bright and crunchy Hunanese pickle, full of tart sweetness and full of fire. Its celadon gleam and brisk crispness will enliven a whole array of foods, from cold Chinese noodles to leftover roasts to a hamburger freshly sizzling from the grill.

• Choose absolutely firm cukes, solid feeling from tip to tip. I prefer the common, seeded sort for this condiment, though you may also use the smaller variety of Kirby pickling cucumber.
• For garlic lov