Bong-Bong Chicken

Bong-bong means “club-club,” a description of the pounding process that gives this cold chicken its special softness. Satisfying and filling, this is Szechwanese fare at its earthy best—simple to prepare, complexly flavored, and gutsily good.

• The classic formula calls for sesame sauce and shredded mung bean sheets to accompany the chicken. I find peanut sauce equally tasty and bean threads (glass noodles) easier to handle. Cucumber is a traditional varia