Scallion and Ginger Explosion Shrimp

This is a simple and strikingly seasoned dish of whole shrimp in their shells, filled with the tang of ginger and scallion and richly infused with black soy and wine. It was taught to me by my more-Chinese-than-Chinese friend, Harvey, at a time when I was a rank beginner to cooking and was stir-frying on a hot plate secreted in my dormitory room, using a tin stockpot inherited from my grandmother.

• For the dish to shine, the shrimp must be extremely fresh. Inspe