Red Bell Pepper with Garlic and Coriander

If every green bell pepper were a red bell pepper, I’d be a lot happier. The red pepper is the ripe fruit—clean, sweet, and clear-tasting, with none of the acrid beginnings or gaseous after-effects of the green. “If I were emperor of the universe” (as a friend of mine likes to say), I would make nine and a half out of every ten bell peppers red and save the green bit for an occasional garnish or for someone I didn’t like.

• This, when I have firm, fresh, and wond