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2–3
as a substantial dish .Easy
Published 1982
For one birthday lunch, my great comrade-in-chopsticks, Barbara Kafka, took me to a fancy New York City Chinese restaurant. There, amidst the high-tech furnishings and the thoroughly un-Chinese hush and fashionable gloom, we were served a splendid small meal. The highlight was this steamed egg custard, brought to the table in one large bowl—the old Chinese sort that resembles a cloud in shape, with an interior glaze of deep turquoise blue and a soupcon of soy on top to dramatize the golden